When it comes to ordering a drink at Double Chicken Please in New York City, don’t be surprised if someone says, “I’ll have the Waldorf, please.” This popular cocktail bar is known for its innovative drinks, like the Waldorf cocktail made with a blend of unpeated and peated whiskies, celery and kale juices, apple, walnut bitters, and soda water. The unique combination of flavors in this drink is part of a growing trend in cocktails that mimic the taste of savory foods, known as umami.
Umami, often referred to as “the fifth taste” alongside sweet, salty, bitter, and sour, was discovered in 1908 by Japanese chemist Kikunae Ikeda. He identified umami in foods like cheese, tomato, and fish, leading to the development of monosodium glutamate (MSG) as a seasoning. Despite being linked to adverse reactions in the past, MSG is making a comeback on menus with a better understanding of food sensitivities.
According to Satoshi Utagawa, chief innovation officer at Ajinomoto Foods North America, consumers are becoming more interested in the savory taste of umami. This trend is reflected in the rise of Asian-inspired flavors in global cuisine, with Chinese and Japanese dishes becoming increasingly popular.
Not only is umami making waves in food, but it is also influencing the world of cocktails. The MSG Martini has gained popularity among cocktail enthusiasts, and savory cocktails like Bloody Mary and Dirty Martini are now staples on beverage menus. Bartenders are experimenting with umami-rich ingredients like miso paste, mushrooms, and nori to create unique flavor profiles in drinks.
One example is the Split Ends raspberry sour cocktail at Bar Snack in New York City, which incorporates Guinness for umami flavors. Other innovative drinks like the Tomato Paloma with MSG and the Brick House Espresso Martini with pomegranate are redefining the cocktail scene.
In the Catskills, Good Spirits has crafted an award-winning gin called Staple Gin, capturing the buttery essence of Calvestrano olives for a nuanced umami texture. The use of pickles in drinks, like the Didi & Stu made with mezcal, plum soju, and pickle brine at Bar Snack, showcases the versatility of umami-rich ingredients in cocktails.
As the demand for unique flavors grows, more drinks are incorporating culinary-inspired elements like pickles to offer a layered umami experience. Brands like Straightaway Cocktails in Portland are experimenting with pickle-infused cocktails to meet the evolving tastes of cocktail connoisseurs.